The opaque purple-colored 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Sandown Vineyard displays a dense nose of cassis and jammy cherry fruit intermixed with licorice, tobacco, tar, and dried herbs. Thick, powerful, full-bodied, and moderately tannic, this wine will benefit from 2-3 years of cellaring and keep for two decades

This immense, super-concentrated, muscular wine appears to mirror the personality and stature of proprietor/winemaker Roman Bratasiuk. Clarendon Hills produces some of my favorite Australian wines, and readers looking for flavor, personality, and pleasure, should seek out this limited production gem.