Listed
below and on the following pages (accessed by
the links to the left) are a set of reviews on
the Clarendon Hills range by esteemed wine critic,
Robert Parker.
The 2002 Syrah Astralis Vineyard is akin to midnight
oil. A viscous, unctuously-textured, full-bodied
wine of remarkable intensity that represents the
essence of a particular varietal as well as vineyard,
it will need 8-10 years before it begins to develop.
It is a legendary Syrah that those lucky enough
to taste in its prime (circa 2025-2035) will give
the respect it most certainly will demand. Thankfully
there are people in the wine world like Roman
Bratasiuk who make wines for future generations
as opposed to those that offer immediate gratification.
But let none of us who care about quality dismiss
the purists and non-compromising winemakers such
as Bratasiuk who are trying to do something beyond
what has ever been accomplished. This may be his
finest wine to date. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2050
The essence of wine, Roman Bratasiuk called it
his “Gulgal Cote Rotie La Turque”.
A potentially perfect wine, the inky purple colour
offers up and extraordinary nose of sweet crème
de cassis and blackberry liqueur, intermixed with
smoke, liquorice and espresso. A wine of superb
purity and perfect seamless harmony, with incredibly
well-concealed tannin, alcohol, acidity, and wood.
This blockbuster reminds me of Mohammed Ali –
“It floats like a butterfly and stings like
a bee”. It is majestic, large-scaled, and
undoubtedly a future legend. Anticipated maturity:
2010-2040.
Showing better than when I tasted it for the Wine
Advocate, the wine seems to open a bit, but is
still backward and, for a Clarendon Hills wine,
showing slightly more new oak than other vintages.
A saturated purple colour offers up concentrated
blackberry fruit intermixed with liquorice and
barbecue spice. The wine is large-scaled, very
intense, with a multi-dimensional, layered personality.
This wine should be at its best in about 7-8 years.
Anticipated maturity: 2008-2025.
Just beginning to emerge from a relatively dormant
state, this prodigious wine was showing the best
it has yet performed, suggesting again that Clarendon
Hills wines behave more like European wines in
terms of needing time in the bottle. The saturated
blue/purple colour offers up notes of ripe black
fruits intermixed with graphite, vanilla, mineral
and spice. Extremely thick, with a viscous texture,
good underlying tannin and acidity, and fabulous
length (nearly 50 seconds), this is certainly
a prodigious effort that is now living up to the
fame and extraordinary quality of this vintage.
Nevertheless, I thought the wine needed about
five years of cellaring two years ago but now
I tend to think it needs at least another 5-7
years of cellaring before it will begin to become
an adolescent. It is a majestic, multi-dimensional,
individualistic wine that certainly is world-class
and undoubtedly profound. Anticipated maturity:
2007-2030.
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